By Paul Blackwell
The best way to make your personal armour.
Good for roleplaying or genuine combat.
Read or Download Basic Armouring: A Practical Introduction to Armour Making (2nd Edition) PDF
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Extra info for Basic Armouring: A Practical Introduction to Armour Making (2nd Edition)
If you want an early period look cover the back plate with leather. 13. Cut out the front plate and drill breath holes. Curve the plate then dish the top (below eye) section in. 14. Cut nasal bar. Rivet front and back plates in place. Doing them together allows you to sort out relative positions, overlap and other such problems. Rivet nasal bar in place, add chinstrap, pad and wear. 36 HEAD Coppergate Style This frame design has a deep brow band with eye holes cut into it, a single strip passing from front to back and two side strips which rivet under the front-back one.
Breaths also allow you to see downwards without moving your head and give your sweat a chance to escape. Period helms often had the breaths on only one side, useful for preventing lances gaining a grip during a tourney but detrimental to ventilation and vision. I would suggest holes on both sides, under the eye slot and around the nose and mouth area. The cheek and chin areas will more than likely be covered by padding so don’t extend the holes too far around. When drilling breaths remember to remove the burrs from the inside of the helm!
Drill rivet holes in plates. Rivet the plates to the inside of the coat in numerical order. Remember, if the rivet holes on a plate will be covered the plate needs to be riveted on before the covering plate! The rivets can be plate or as ornate as those on armour number 7. 4. Rivet the straps and tie loops in place; a key ring makes a good circular attachment point for the laces. Brigandine A front opening style of body armour popular in the 15C. If you are not wearing mail it’s a good idea to add tassets, plates covering the hips, using the diagram in figure 11-2.